Donuts were not just food in the USSR, but a true cultural phenomenon, a symbol of cozy and affordable street fast food. Their history in the Soviet Union is full of interesting details — from the appearance of the famous hole to the linguistic debates between Moscow and Leningrad.
🕳️ Where Did the Hole Come From?
Interestingly, initially donuts in the Russian Empire were made without a hole. They came from Polish cuisine, where they were called “pączki” and were balls with filling .
The key figure in the donut’s transformation was the People’s Commissar of the Food Industry, Anastas Mikoyan. During his trip to the USA in 1936, he was impressed by local fast food technologies, including American-style donuts with a hole .
The recipe for “Moscow-style donuts” in the form of rings first appeared in the legendary book “The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food” in 1939. The recipe suggested rolling out the dough, cutting out circles with a glass, and then making a smaller hole with a shot glass . This is how the hole took hold, becoming a distinctive feature of the Soviet donut.
🍩 The Donut Shop: A Cult Place
In the Soviet Union, donut shops were one of the main formats of fast food. These were small establishments or kiosks that sold only one dish — hot donuts .
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Atmosphere: It smelled of hot oil and fresh pastries. Donuts were typically eaten hot, often right on the go or at small tables. They were sprinkled with powdered sugar and washed down with hot coffee with condensed milk .
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Price and Location: One donut cost only 5 kopecks . This made them an affordable treat for everyone — students, schoolchildren, workers. Donut shops were often located near institutes, parks, and busy streets, for example, at VDNKh in Moscow .
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Hustle and Bustle: Queues for them were common, and the hot little donuts were practically “eaten before reaching the counter” — that’s how good they were .
🥨 Moscow Donuts vs. Leningrad Pyshki
A real gastronomic debate unfolded in the USSR. What was called a donut (ponchik) in Moscow was called a pyshka in Leningrad (St. Petersburg) .
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Moscow: Here, the word “ponchik” specifically referred to the ring-shaped item deep-fried in oil. The word “pyshka” for a Muscovite was more of a description of a plump woman, not a pastry .
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Leningrad: In the northern capital, the establishments were called “Pyshechnaya” (for example, the famous pyshechnaya on Bolshaya Konyushennaya street is still open today). Here, a pyshka is the same fried ring of dough, but it has its own, original name .
📝 The GOST Standard: The Taste of Childhood Recipe
Despite the name, all donuts were prepared according to a single standard — GOST, which guaranteed their consistent taste throughout the country . Here is a basic recipe that will allow you to make those very Soviet donuts at home.
Ingredients (for about 20-25 donuts):
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Wheat flour — 500–530 g
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Water or milk — 250 ml (warm)
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Yeast — 5–11 g dry (or 15–16 g fresh compressed)
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Sugar — 60–80 g (about 2 tbsp)
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Egg — 1 pc.
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Butter or margarine — 30–40 g (melted)
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Salt — a pinch
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Vegetable oil — for deep frying
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Powdered sugar — for dusting
Preparation:
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Sponge: Dissolve yeast, sugar, and salt in the warm liquid. Leave for 10–15 minutes until a foamy cap appears .
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Kneading: Add the egg and melted butter to the mixture. Gradually add the flour, kneading into a soft dough that slightly sticks to your hands .
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Proofing: Cover the dough with a towel and leave in a warm place for 1–1.5 hours. During this time, the dough should double in size. Punch it down 1–2 times .
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Shaping: On an oiled table, roll out the dough into a layer about 1–1.5 cm thick. Cut out circles with a glass, and make a smaller hole in the center of each (e.g., with a shot glass). Let the pieces proof for another 20–30 minutes under plastic wrap .
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Frying: Heat vegetable oil (a layer of at least 2–3 cm) in a saucepan or deep frying pan. Fry the donuts on both sides until golden brown, about 2–3 minutes per side .
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Serving: Place the finished donuts on a paper towel to remove excess fat, and generously sprinkle with powdered sugar. They are best served hot .
Enjoy your meal and a trip back to childhood!